Saturday, May 31, 2008

Brioche Loaves - Part Two

Mike’s Brioche loaves came out so good that you don’t even need any butter or jam on the slices to eat them. The crust is crispy but thin and the inside just melts in your mouth. I am so impressed both with the recipe and Mike’s skills. The recipe was pretty easy to follow. There are several steps but each one takes very little time. The hardest part is waiting for the dough to rise because you can’t wait to bake it and have a slice.

This is a Barefoot Contessa recipe and I was never a big fan of Ina Garten but I am retracting all the previous and rather nasty statements that I’ve made about her (all my nasty remarks about everything else still stand). We’ve done a few of her recipes and they have all come out exactly like she claimed that they would. I picked up a copy of “Barefoot in Paris” at the library and it is full of wonderful recipes and lots of pictures. I am definitely a visual person so if the dish looks good then I’ll give it a try. This book meets all of my tough standards for visual stimulation, ease of recipes and variety of dishes. If you can get a copy, try the Herbed-Baked Eggs. They are delicious and come out perfect every time. I passed the recipe onto my friend, Joann and she loved them too.
Brioche Loaves
Makes 2 loaves
½ c warm water (110-120 degrees)
1 pkg dried yeast
3 tablespoons sugar
6 extra large eggs at room temperature
4 ¼ cups unbleached flour
2 teaspoons kosher salt
½ pound (2 sticks) unsalted butter, at room temperature
1 egg mixed with 1 tablespoon milk, for egg wash
Combine the water, yeast and sugar in the bowl of an electric mixer fitted with the paddle attachment. (make sure the bowl is not cold particularly if it’s metal) Mix and allow to stand for 5 minutes until the yeast and sugar dissolve. Add the eggs and beat on medium speed for 1 minute, until well mixed. With the mixer on low speed, add 2 cups of the flour and the salt and mix for 5 minutes. With the mixer still on low, add 2 more cups of flour and mix for 5 more minutes. Still on low speed, add the soft butter in chunks and mix for 2 minutes, scraping down the beater, until well blended. With the mixer still running, sprinkle in the remaining ¼ cup of flour. Switch the paddle attachment to a dough hook and mix on low speed for 2 minutes. Scrape the dough into a large buttered bowl and cover with plastic wrap. Refrigerate overnight.
The next day, allow the dough to sit at room temp for 1 hour. Grease two loaf pans. Turn the dough out onto a lightly floured board and cut in half. Pat each portion into a 6x8 rectangle, then starting on the short side, roll each rectangle into a cylindrical loaf. Place each loaf, seam side up, into a greased pan. Cover the pans with a damp (linen or flour sack) towel and set aside to rise at room temperature until doubled in volume, 2-2 ½ hours.
Preheat the over to 375 degrees. When the loaves have risen, brush the top of each with egg wash and bake for 45 minutes or until the top springs back and it sound slightly hollow when tapped. Turn the loaves out onto a wire rack to cool.

There it is folks. It was pretty easy and the results are well worth the effort. Our loaves didn’t look quite as pretty as Ina’s but they are delicious. In fact, I think I’ll go make a piece of toast now. Source: Barefoot in Paris-Easy French Food You Can Make at Home by Ina Garten. Published 2004 Clarkson Potter/Publishers New York, New York.

Friday, May 30, 2008

Mike And The Brioche Dough



Last night, I asked Mike to make the dough for a new Brioche recipe that I got from an Ina Garten cookbook. She claims that it’s really easy so I thought I would turn it over to Mike who does not bake and has never made bread in his life. I had to go to work and this dough must be refrigerated overnight so he got the job. He was not thrilled about this assignment but once I convinced him that the KitchenAid mixer was really just a power tool, it was game on. When I arrived home a few hours later, the kitchen was spotless… or so I thought. I discovered upon walking in barefoot, there were little bits of kosher salt all over the floor. (I wonder what happened in there when I was gone) Mike was sitting at the computer and this is what he wrote:


Let me advise you, never offer to make bread . That’s it . Trust me . Does anyone know the mess that can be made with four cups of flour and a tiny kitchen ? Okay, one has to admit that power tools were (mis) used, but still , this should not be the horrendous project that it became. Memo to guys, do the dishes, make the bed, wash the commode, put the seat down, give up the remote but never and I mean never volunteer to make the friggin bread. By the way, let’s not forget to hone the knife AWAY from the body. All seriousness aside, please be careful with sharp implements in the kitchen unless in-laws are present. I want to take a moment to thank Jen for allowing me to waste both her time and your patience. Right then, back to the stories from the idiot’s kitchen. My lovely bride has taught me an amazing cornucopia of wonderful recipes. Yeah , screw that. There is nothing wrong with searching for the best wiener in the world (Preferably with sauerkraut , and yes, I just said wiener ) Jen ‘s going to impart cooking knowledge that she’s gathered through her life and if luck is on my side you’ll read about my wacky adventures in the cooking place. If you can’t laugh at me you can at least laugh with me. Once more , allow me to pound this thought into my mind and maybe yours, DO NOT TRY TO MAKE BREAD.

I’m guessing from this little rant that my kitchen did not look all that great when this was going on and I bet there were a few choice words flying through the air.
Despite his frustration, the dough looked great when I peeked into the fridge so I’m sure it will be fine. We just took it out to rise and will bake it today so stay tuned and we will let you know.

Thursday, May 29, 2008

Lazarus' Chicken Broccoli Casserole



My sister and I (at the ages of about eight and ten) were in the dining room approaching the doorway to the kitchen. Grandma was making one of our favorites, Cream of Broccoli soup. She poured the steaming hot liquid into her blender, plugged it in and pushed the button. The whirling sound of the blender began and before we knew what was happening, the lid flew off and green slime was spewing from the blender. Who knew a creamed soup could be so aerodynamic? This may be a location joke but we laughed so hard we were literally rolling on the floor. This stuff was just dripping from the ceiling. Too this day, I think this is one of the funniest things I have ever seen.


Point of story:That even the most experienced of cooks have shitty days. Everyone that has ever set foot in a kitchen has a story of some catastrophe. War stories, if you will. That is one of the cool things about cooking. Sometimes you have winners and sometimes not. I rarely cook with recipes so every once in a while, I make something that is not so edible but you have to have the courage to keep experimenting in order to create new and delicious meals.

This is a no fail recipe for a Chicken-Broccoli Casserole from Lazarus Department stores. They had a great restaurant in our local store and it was a treat to end our shopping day with a meal from their kitchen. They produced a small paperback cookbook and most of the pages of my copy are stained and rumpled. It has definitely seen a lot of use over the years. If you can ever pick up an old copy at a yard sale or on Ebay, buy it. Whenever my family is coming for dinner, they request this casserole. It one of those great "stand by" recipes but has enough flexibility that you can play with it and add seasonal ingredients or things that you have on hand. It’s perfect served with a green salad, bread or roll, and some fresh fruit. I always comes out perfect and even a beginning cook can make it.



Lazarus’ Chicken And Broccoli Casserole
Serves 4-6

Butter 1 stick
Celery, diced 2 cups
Onions, diced 1 cup
Green Pepper, diced ¼ cup
Mushrooms, fresh, sliced 8 oz
Broccoli, fresh, chopped 1 lb.
Chicken, cooked, chopped 1 ¼ lb.
Cream Cheese 1 lb.
Salt to taste
Pepper to taste
Garlic Salt ¼ t.

Sauté vegetables in melted butter until tender. Add chicken and seasonings. Add cream cheese to mixture and blend over low heat until cheese is melted. Pour mixture into buttered casserole and heat in 350 degree oven until top is golden brown.

**Note**
It is okay to use frozen broccoli and canned mushrooms. I have detected almost no difference in flavor or texture. This is a great casserole for leftover chicken so I keep a package of frozen broccoli on hand to whip up a quick dinner. We’ve also added carrots to the dish and topped with bread crumbs so experiment with it and add the things you like or have in the fridge.






Wednesday, May 28, 2008

Scalloped Tomato Recipe

Scalloped Tomatoes
From Dorothy Meads of Fort Pierce, FL

Dorothy was a member of our church in Florida and an excellent cook. She always brought something great to our potlucks. I love this dish so much that I had to get the recipe. I can be made with fresh tomatoes or canned. Simple and delicious. Enjoy!

6-8 medium tomatoes, peeled and cut up and cook 5 minutes
Saute 1 medium onion chopped, ¼ green pepper diced in 2 T butter until opaque.
Add 4 T. brown sugar, 1 t. salt, dash of basil and thyme.
Add to cooked tomatoes mixture and put on top of 4-6 slices toasted buttered bread.
Cube the buttered toast and put in the bottom of 1 quart casserole.
Bake 30 minutes at 375 degrees. Serves 6.

Friday, May 23, 2008

White Bread.. It's a Classic

Here in Mid-Central Ohio it feels more like autumn than spring. Last night, the low temperature was 39 degrees. Refusing to turn the furnace back on, we bundled up and had a hearty soup and some delicious home-made bread.

Bread making has been a task that I have avoided for years. When I would read recipes for breads, I would become overwhelmed. They take too long and have too many steps. But about a year ago, I decided to bite the bullet and give it a try. The results have been fantastic. We hardly ever buy bread anymore and if we do it's from a delicious local bakery that features an awesome Vienna bread that makes the best toast and sandwiches. (Buckeye Bakery, here in Sunny Mansfield)

I had given some thought to a bread machine but everytime I tried samples from friends, it was really heavy and dense with the consistancy of lead. Also, I am not a gadget person. I have a few that I can't live without but many more have ended up at Goodwill. So I ruled that out. I just had to find the right recipe and figure out when I could fit it in to my schedule. I would start out with a basic white bread recipe to learn the technique and branch out from there.

This recipe is easy. You can do other things while it's rising so the actual work time is short and the results are great. It's good for sandwiches,toast, sopping up gravy or my favorite, bread with butter. It's the perfect white bread.

You don't have to have any special skills and or machinery to make it but I have found that my trusty KitchenAid mixer does most of the work for me. By the way... sidenote... I coveted this mixer for YEARS and after getting one, it was everything I dreamed it would be. Not an appliance that I use everyday but when I need it, it gets the job done.


Here is my recipe for a classic white bread:
1 packet active dry yeast
2 3/4 cups bread flour
1 1/2 teaspoons salt
1 cup water
1/4 cup butter, melted
1 teaspoon sugar
1. Empty the contents of 1 package of active dry yeast in a bowl or the bowl of your mixer.
2. Add 1/4 cup lukewarm water and 1 teaspoon of sugar
3. Go do something for a few minutes until this mixture looks foamy
4. Once it's foamy and a little bubbly, add all the remaining ingredients and with the dough hook in the mixer, mix the dough. It will form into a ball and I let it mix on a medium speed for a minute or two to knead the bread. (you can also knead by hand on a floured board)
5. Dump the dough onto a floured surface. Cover with plastic wrap and let it rest for ten minutes.
6. After the ten minutes is up, roll the dough into a rectangle approximately 12" X 8". This removes all air bubbles from the dough.
7. Starting at the short end, roll the dough tightly into a log. Press the edge together to seal it. Tuck the ends under and place the loaf in a 9" X 5" loaf pan that you have greased. (cooking spray is fine to grease with)
8. Cover loaf pan with plastic wrap and allow the loaf to rise until it has doubled in size.
9. Remove plastic wrap and bake in a 375 degree oven for about 30-35 minutes until the top is golden brown.
10. Remove from pan and cool on a wire rack.
**Side Note About Rising**
My house is always cool. So rising can be a problem, but I have found the perfect solution. Once I place the loaf in the greased pan and cover with plastic wrap, I place it in the oven. Along with a
small dish of water. Turn the oven on for just a few seconds to get the tiniest bit of heat and turn it off. Then I leave the oven light on for extra heat. I get a perfect rise everytime. Also when its time to bake, I simply remove the plastic wrap and the dish of water. Turn the oven on the 375 degrees and allow the bread to stay in the oven while its preheating.
** Helpful Tools and Tricks **
I use a large wooden cutting board to roll on. I purchased it from Crate and Barrel for about $25. It's perfect for cookies,breads and pie crusts. The only care needed is to occasionally oil it with a food safe mineral oil that you can also purchase at Crate and Barrel or Bed,Bath and Beyond.
Little rolling pins are not for me. I have a large, french pastry rolling pin. It is solid wood and has no handles, the ends are tapered. It measures about 21" long. I bought mine at Lehmans in Kidron,Ohio for about $14. This is a kitchen must have. I will never own another rolling pin in my life. I'll provide you with a link to Lehmans. I think you will really enjoy this catolog.

Tuesday, May 20, 2008

The Kitchen Doesn't Make the Cook


I have moved approximately twenty times in twenty years. That means that I've had my fair share of small, rental kitchens with old appliances. My first college apartment had avocado green appliances and counter tops and this was 1988. It was a galley with barely enough room for one person. The oven door practically opened into the cupboard under the sink. My next apartment kitchen, large with plenty of cupboards, had appliances left from the 1930's. Although they looked great in my vintage kitchen, they were not very efficient. The refrigerator barely kept the food cold so I had to go to the market every day or two.

Finally, after years of being a renter, I purchased my own home. It had previously been owned by friends who were leaving to build their dream home. They had already remodeled this kitchen. It had plenty of cupboards, new counter tops and flooring. I was in heaven!! You could fit several people in it and it opened into the dining room and Florida room. Perfect for entertaining. There was only one problem, I practically wore out the floor with all the walking required to get from the sink to the stove and then to the fridge. Believe it or not, I actually missed my small kitchen. I finally got it. It's not the kitchen that makes the food. A small efficient kitchen can put out the same great food as a large,designer kitchen with all the latest gadgets. Small kitchens just require a little creativity.

When Julia Child lived in France, she had a tiny kitchen, one floor up from the salon with a dumbwaiter that only worked part of the time. It was in this kitchen that she learned to cook and entertain. It was in this kitchen that she started experimenting with recipes that she would later use in Mastering The Art of French Cooking. She even began giving cooking lessons in it. She and her husband, Paul, had to use a little imagination to get this little kitchen to perform. Paul hung pegboard on the walls and Julia hung all of her equipment. Paul drew an outline around each item so it would be put away in exactly the same spot. You see, Julia's small kitchen didn't stop her from improving her skills and it didn't stop her from entertaining. If you love to cook, you will do it anywhere.

Now back to me, (this is all about me, right??) I have come full circle. After divorce, remarriage, and relocation, I am now living in my childhood home. My house was built in 1925 and it has most of it's original features. The kitchen is small and has plenty of room for improvement. I keep threatening to enter it in one of those America's Ugliest Kitchen contests. For three years I have complained of all it's shortcomings but when my friend, Paul, came over recently he said,"It reminds me of my grandma's kitchen". I have now begun to look at it with nostalgia. This kitchen has served my family great meals for 35 years, just as it is. We've had birthdays, anniversaries and every other major occasion with food prepared from this kitchen and it was great!

Friday, May 16, 2008

Country Market Leads to Delicious Dish

It is said that Paris is the center of the world of gastronomy but it's a big world. In my little corner of it, I've discovered many terrific regional foods and food markets that continue to thrive even in the midst of the evil empire superstore.

Mike and I try to support local shops and farms as much as possible and in the Mansfield area, that is still relatively easy to do. Although some of my favorites are no longer here, we still have a great local bakery, a few meat markets and a variety of country markets that carry seasonal and local produce.
Last weekend, I decided to check out the Planktown Country Market in Shiloh,Ohio. After a stop at an Amish/Mennonite greenhouse and nearly loading the car full of plants, we made our way to the market. The parking lot was full at 10:00 on a Saturday morning so I knew that it must be good. This is not a market that one just stumble's upon. It's tucked in among farms and greenhouses and is down a country lane.
After entering the modest and somewhat outdated building, I could see why the parking lot was full. They have one of the longest cheese counters I have ever seen. I took my number and eagerly awaited the time when my number would be called. Finally over the loudspeaker I heard, "number 90". I practically screamed out, "That's me". I started at one end of the counter and worked my way through countless cheeses and deli meats. My clerk was happy to give me a sample if I was unsure about a particular cheese. Although most of the cheeses were hard cheeses, sorry no brie, the variety was endless. They had flavors that I had never imagined and many turned out to be quite good. (still not sure about the pizza flavored cheese) Most of the cheeses were Amish -made from right here in Ohio. We particularly enjoyed the Holmes County Baby Swiss. Then I spotted a slab of bacon. A real unsliced "Slab" of bacon. I'm delighted. No more paper thin pieces of bacon for me. I give it a sniff and it has a wonderful smoky scent. Perfect. Just when I think it can't get any better, I discover bags containing the ends of the deli meats that are too small for them to use in the slicer. The bags contain mixed types of meats and sell for only $1.29/lb. You can't beat it. Perfect for sandwiches or...Kentucky Hot Brown. I got the last meat bag and it contained a couple of pounds of turkey and ham. I had more cheese than any two people could possibly consume, bacon and the bag of meat for only $35.
After a quick stop at the bakery on the way home, I was set with all the ingredients for a delicious Kentucky Hot Brown. This is one of my favorites from the years that I lived in Louisville. Invented at the Brown Hotel in downtown Louisville, it has become a popular regional dish and has even been featured by Bobby Flay, Emeril Lagasse and many others. Each person has their own twist on the dish. Anyone can make it that knows how to make a basic bechamel sauce. Served with a nice green salad and dessert, it is a perfect meal to serve for an informal gathering.
Kentucky Hot Brown
Kentucky Hot Brown is an open faced sandwich and can be prepared in individual gratin dishes but I like to use a large pyrex casserole and then serve onto plates from the one dish. The traditional version calls for parmesan cheese but I like to use an extra sharp cheddar.For me this is a dish that doesn't require a recipe for an experienced cook. If you need a detailed recipe, there are many available on the web.
First I use a good bread and toast as many slices as the number of people I intend to serve. My large casserole will hold six slices of toast. Place the toast in a single layer into the lightly greased casserole. Next, I place a nice, thick layer of turkey breast on top of each piece of toast followed by ham. Once this is completed, prepare a bechemal sauce with the slight variation of adding cheese to melt in the sauce. Pour your completed sauce over each slice and bake in a 350 degree oven until hot and bubbly (approximately 20 minutes). When complete, garnish with a nice,crispy piece of bacon over each slice. I like fresh tomato slices and some chopped green onions on top. This rich, creamy dish is sure to become a favorite to be served many times and in many variations over the years.

Thursday, May 15, 2008

The Delicacy Of The Elusive Morel

If you are an old morel hunter you smell the arrival of the fungi in the air. - Louis Bromfield

Spring for me is defined by the elusive Morel mushroom. I (as most people) call them mushrooms but they technically are not. They are indeed a fungus and called Morchella Esculenta and belong to the genus Ascomycete, however not all fungi are mushrooms. They are found in many places in North America and also in France. In North Central Ohio, they are usually only found for a couple of weeks in late April - early May before the May Apples begin to flower.

I am extremely lucky that my dad is an avid and experienced morel hunter. He just knows when and where to begin looking. Apparently he, like Louis Bromfield, can smell them in the air.

Several years ago while living in Louisville, I made the trip home and brought a girlfriend. The plan was to go mushroom hunting so I could learn how to find them. This mushroom hunting is
tricky business. As we approached the depths of the woods, we spotted other hunters. These hunters were not armed with rifles, they were armed with bags. We were all there in search of the same thing. Not wanting to give up the location of his "spots", Dad used Jeanne and me as decoys. We were to go one direction in the woods luring the other hunters to follow us while Dad would sneak away to check his locations. We were told never to get excited and scream out, "I found one" unless we wanted to be mobbed. Dad knew the woods so well that he had no problem catching back up to us. The hunt would continue for a couple of hours but to no avail, at least for me. I could stare right at one and not see it. Dad was standing with his walking stick in his hand pointing right at one and I was staring at the leafy ground with the look of "duh!" We got a few that day and Jeanne and I both had a great time.


Having been away from here for many years, I didn't realize how many people really get out and hunt them. Every day at work, I have to get the latest counts from my work collegue, Joanne. Her entire family has been out looking and they are passing on the skill to the next generation. Nearby Malabar Farm has a weekend each spring to teach folks how to hunt, clean and prepare them. The only problems is that there are less for Dad to bring home to us if everyone else is out looking for them.

If you are not a woodsy person or have never tried Morels, you can find them in specialty or health food stores. They are quite expensive but worth the splurge even if you can only buy a few. My favorites are the big yellow ones but I know of others who like the smaller darker ones.
In this area, our local farm market is selling them for around $50 per pound. The $16 package that they were selling would be enough for you to give them a try. There are suddenly tons of recipes out there for morels. I have seen recipes for soups, frittatas, creamed on toast, mixed in with asparagus and the list goes on. Forget all these "foodie", high brow recipes and stick with the simple. The best way to have a morel is lightly floured and pan fried in butter. This method of preparation is the best way to bring out the true, earthy flavor of the Morel. I like to add just a touch of salt. They truly are a delicacy and worth the time hunting them or the expense of buying them. Bromfield said that for him, they were at the top of all delicacies and placed them above pate de foie gras, salmon trout and ecrevisse. I concur.

Wednesday, May 14, 2008

How This All Started...

This all started because of the Julie/Julia Project. It's a fascinating book about Julie Powell's quest to Master the Art of French Cooking. I could not put this book down! All I could remember about Julia Child was the ridiculous parody of her performed by Dan Ackroyd on SNL. (I love the skit and I imagine that Julia did too.) Julie's book created an obsession for me. I have read biographies about Julia, got videos of her shows from the local library and learned so many things about fine tuning my cooking skills. I've learned that some (many) great meals take more than thirty minutes to prepare and they are worth it!! I've also learned why some things work in the kitchen and others don't. I remembered the great smells wafting out of my grandma's kitchen and I haven't left the kitchen yet.

While many of the tv cooking shows are great and I would much rather have people making thirty minute meals than driving through McDonalds, I would like people to know that great food is worth planning and working for. It doesn't require a lot of fancy gadgets and hard to find foods. A great meal is a little more than emptying a variety of canned goods together and heating them up. Hopefully by learning quick and simple meals, people will then feel challenged to try more complicated dishes.

Join us in our quest to rediscover the pleasures of food.

Coping During Trying Times

How is everyone doing out there?  It's been a long time since I have posted but you know how it goes. Life sometimes detours and goe...